how to get the perfect brows
Nathan Williams, from Sydney’s Parlour B salon, is known around town as the eyebrow whisperer – he’s the undisputed go-to guy when brows are playing up. “Seventy per cent of my clients have problem brows,” he says. “They’re sparse, or there’s a scar through the brow, or the hair’s growing in different directions.” But there’s another reason the moniker is so apt: his softly-softly approach. “Eyebrows should never be the main statement,” he says. “You want to keep them looking natural – fairly thick and lightly arched. When women walk out of my salon looking great, not looking like they’ve just had their brows done, I know I’ve done my job.”
Step 1: Shape
“If you have any kind of problem brow, see a specialist to help sort it out and create your best line,” says Williams. “Some women require regular professional help – for instance, those with dark hair, a strong brow or fast regrowth. But many women can simply maintain the brow line at home, tweezing every few days.” Williams’s ideal brow? “Eva Longoria’s. The key is to balance natural thickness with a soft arch.”
Step 2: Fill
This is an optional step – but a crucial one if you have sparse brows, or brows that need a little lengthening. “Pencils go on the skin,” explains Williams. “Work in light strokes to fill in any gaps, warming the tip a little on the back of the hand if necessary. Be careful not to pencil actual hairs. This can overload the brows, just like when you put too much styling product in your hair.”
Step 3: Define
“Powder coats hairs and kind of fluffs the brows up,” says Williams. Use a small angled brush and light strokes to sweep on brow powder (or even a matte eyeshadow), working outwards. “Err on a lighter shade than you might automatically reach for,” adds Williams. “It will look more natural and colour is always easy to build up.”
Step 4: Set
Use a brow brush, whether bristled or spooly, to groom brows upwards. If your brow hairs grow in different directions, or have a tendency to fall out of line during the day, set them with a clear brow gel. “Use a good quality gel and wipe the wand first to get rid of excess,” advises Williams. “That flaky look isn’t pretty.”
Want to try winter’s strong brow trend?
“It’s not about going a shade darker,” says Williams. “You can easily get a more intense look with your current brow powder by working foundation or concealer through brows first, then just brush on your brow powder as usual.” It’s also a great trick for taking brows from day to night.
Tools of the trade
Pencil
Pencil fills in the bits where hair is meant to be, so it’s important to find your perfect match. Powder Eyebrow Pencil in Blonde, $37, by Dior, 02 9695 4800; Sourcils Design Superfine Automatic Brow Pencil in Middle Brown, $55, by Lancôme, 02 9931 8888; Perfect Pair Brow Liner and Gel in Fiery Red, $17.95, by Playboy, 03 9827 6615; Brow Stylist Shaping Duet in Medium Brown, $21.50, by L’Oréal Paris, 1300 659 259; Professional Eyebrow Pencil in Black, $7.95, by Rimmel, 1800 812 663.
Powder
Brush on powder to define brows; build up to desired intensity. Make-up artist favourites include Bare Escentuals bareMinerals Brow Color, $35, by i.d, 1800 808 993; and Brow Powder, $44, by Becca, 02 8399 1274.
Wax
Brow waxes are becoming increasingly popular. Make-up artists love them for the way they give instant depth and intensity, as well as setting and adding shine. Try Brow Finisher, $30, by M.A.C, 03 9825 0101, which comes in five shades; or the new Brow Perfecting Duo, $56, by Estée Lauder, 1800 061 326, a powder and wax palette available in three colour options.
Gel
In one sweep, tinted gels set hairs and add a touch of colour. They’re ideal if you already have a good brow and prefer a low-maintenance style of beauty. Brow Shaper, $45, by Bobbi Brown, 1800 061 326, comes in five shades. Or, to set already powdered brows, try Brow Gel, $22, by Bloom, 03 9421 0200. For a slightly richer tint, Eyebrow Enhancer Duo, $51, by Yves Saint Laurent, 02 9965 9700, features a creamy tint at one end and a setting gel at the other.
Extras
Define and groom brows with Point Slant Tweezers, $52.95, by Rubis, 1800 251 215. Catch every stray hair with the help of Make Up Mirror Compact Duo, $36, by Jemma Kidd, 02 9360 7711; and highlight your arches with High Brow, $38, by Benefit, 02 9695 4800. Angle Brush, $25, and Brow Brush, $11, both by Make Up Store, 02 9360 5885.
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