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What a load of Boules: My favourite new workout

Here in New York we’ve hit that part of the year when it gets wet and windy and bloody hard to get motivated to get outside and get moving. As soon as the air got crisp and the leaves turned, I was on the couch in my cardigan.

Then I headed up to Connecticut for a country-inn weekend, and found a sport I could totally get into. Well, maybe calling it a “sport” is a bit rich, but let’s not nitpick, it did get me moving. It’s called boules. Also known as pétanque. In other words: bowling. (But in French it sounds so much more glamorous, no?)

Similar to bocce (which I know from a few of my local Brooklyn bars), boules is the laziest, most addictive activity I’ve tried in a long time. When my friend Brekke and I first hit the boulodrome at the Bee and Thistle Inn in Old Lyme, Connecticut, I had a flashback to The Secret Life of Us. Remember the hipster-resurgence of lawn bowls that took hold of Australia back in 2001? Right. Well, this was nothing at all like that. Not a schooner of Toohey’s in sight.

Never having played boules before, we were given a quick lesson by innkeepers Linnea and David Rufo, and then launched straight into a game. I’d like to recount the rules and procedures for you, but frankly, it took about seven or eight rounds for Brekke and I to catch on to what was happening. (The order of who tosses the boules, how we scored points, etc.) We blamed our opponents, since they’d treated us to a yummy tasting menu with about five different wines the night before and our heads were still foggy. (Hmm, their boules strategy revealed!)

The bit we do remember is that you have to get your boules closest to the little marker—and you can knock other people’s boules out of the way. Once we got into the swing of it, we were hooked. We were especially partial to the part where you got to exclaim, “Nice boule!”

Linnea and David play regularly—with famous chef Jacques Pépin, no less. They regaled us with stories of downing bottles of rosé during games, and the losers having to “kiss the fanny” (It means “bum” here, don’t forget! There’s a wooden carving in the shape of a butt kept close to the boulodrome precisely for this purpose.)

The best part of boules is that it allows for different styles of throwing or tossing the boules (some lob it gently, others chuck it like a shot put), and there’s plenty of time to chat between turns. The first team to score 13 points is the winner—and what do you know, Brekke and I beat the innkeepers (but we couldn’t bring ourselves to tell them to kiss the fanny.) Feeling very pleased with ourselves, we decided that our strenuous morning of sport must be followed up with a post-workout cool down. And at the Bee and Thistle that means curling up in front of the fire, and subjecting yourself to a massage. Nice boule!

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