When a skin-lightening beauty star fell from grace, a new wonder ingredient stepped up. Katrina Lawrence reports.Ask any dermatologist how to best treat unwanted pigmentation and you will soon hear the word “hydroquinone”. The ingredient, found in over-the-counter products (at a concentration of two per cent) or with a prescription (at around four per cent), is commonly termed a bleaching agent. Technically, however, it doesn’t bleach skin; it inhibits the pigment-forming enzyme tyrosinase.
In recent times, hydroquinone has had competition in the shape of kojic acid, bearberry extract and niacinamide, to name a few, which all work their pigment-inhibiting powers within various stages of the melanin production cycle.
Nevertheless, dermatologists say they don’t come close to the skin-lightening powers of hydroquinone. “It’s the most effective topical agent available that is considered relatively safe to use,” says Dr Chris Kearney of Sydney Specialist Dermatology.
On the other side of the hydroquinone fence, however, are numerous regulatory boards. Hydroquinone is banned in Europe, Japan and South Africa, and the US Food and Drug Administration is reviewing the safety status of hydroquinone, with the ingredient currently undergoing toxicology studies. At issue: evidence that the substance may act as a carcinogen in rodents when administered orally; and the link with the skin-darkening condition ochronisis. But dermatologists dispute both charges. “There is some evidence that hydroquinone can cause leukaemia in high concentrations in mice,” acknowledges Dr Kearney, but adds, “The evidence that it’s dangerous in the low concentrations that we use is lacking.”
In regards to the second charge, “Excessive use in high concentrations can lead to ochronosis [but] this is extremely rare,” he says, noting that the problem has arisen when darker-skinned consumers have used excessive concentrations
over extended periods.
Hydroquinone, however, has some drawbacks that dermatologists will admit to. “It’s definitely irritating [to skin] if used too often,” notes Dr Kearney. With this in mind, the big skincare companies have been furiously concocting an alternative to hydroquinone – and one that is as effective, while being risk-free, even with continued use.
Enter Clinique’s new Dark Spot Corrector (see box, below). Clinical tests have shown it to be as effective as four per cent hydroquinone. “When we did our clinical studies we made our measurements in five different ethnic groups: Caucasians, Japanese, Asians/Indians, African-Americans and Latinas,” says Dr Daniel Yarosh from Estée Lauder. “We found efficacy equal to hydroquinone in all groups.”
The star ingredient: a botanical from South-East Asia called Dianella ensifolia. “It was a brute-force screening program,” says Dr Yarosh. “We collaborated with a biotech company and 1140 extracts were assayed before we found this one.” Why was it chosen? “The Dianella ensifolia extract molecule helps inhibit oxidation during the production of melanin.”
In addition to Dianella ensifolia, Clinique added ascorbyl glucoside (a vitamin-C derivative known for its ability to prevent pigmentation), glucosamine and salicylic acid (to exfoliate pigmented cells) and trametes versicolour (a mushroom extract that helps break up melanin, making it easier for users to slough off).
So could all of this add up to another death knell for the use of hydroquinone? “I think the world in general wants to move away from hydroquinone,” says Dr Yarosh. “Our goal was to find something better – and in this case I think we did.”
Did you know… Brightening skincare is the fastest- growing segment ahead of anti-ageing, with 62 per cent of Australian women being concerned about pigmentation*.
Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector, $89, by Clinique, 1800 061 326.