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is your make-up ageing you: face

is your make-up ageing you: face

You never forget to cleanse, are generous with your moisturiser, and know that eye creams should only ever be lightly patted on. Still, you look older than your age. How can this be? The answer could lie in your make-up bag. Here are the common beauty mistakes that may be responsible for adding years to your appearance.

You haven’t mastered the art of foundation
As your skin ages, it becomes drier and fine lines become more apparent, so the foundation you wore in your 20s just won’t cut it in your 30s and beyond. Janet Pardo, international make-up artist for Clinique, advises women to avoid mattifying formulas as they get older, instead opting for moisturising foundation formulas that have a dewy, luminous finish. “These will not only nourish your skin, but contain optics to scatter and diffuse light. This helps minimise the look of lines and wrinkles,” she says. When it comes to choosing the right shade, be sure to try foundations in daylight and steer clear of those with peach or pink undertones. “These are even more ageing and can make skin look dull,” Pardo adds. Try Light! Easy-Blend Foundation, $54, by Biotherm, 1300 668 450, and Silk Crème Foundation Luminous Formula, $79, by Laura Mercier, 02 9663 4277. Primers are also a good investment, as they deliver extra moisture and smooth the complexion. Again, those that contain light-diffusing optics are ideal. Try Ageless Illuminating Primer, $15.95, by Natio, 03 9415 9911.

You think one concealer is enough
Most make-up artists agree that you should have two concealers in your make-up bag: a highly pigmented one for hiding blemishes and evening out the complexion, and a sheer illuminating one for obscuring under-eye circles. Uneven skin tone is one of the main signs of ageing (think pigmentation and sun spots), so achieving an even complexion is the key to maintaining a youthful appearance. Make-up artist Rae Morris also recommends avoiding concealers that are too thick, “as they will just sink into dry skin and accentuate fine lines.” Try Dynamic Duo Patrol Conceal It, $35, by Napoleon Perdis, 1800 814 572 – with two blendable shades, it’s a great choice, as you can mix and match to suit your skin tone. Illuminating concealer wands, like Instant Age Rewind Lifting + Brightening Under Eye Concealer, $15.50, by Maybelline, 1300 369 327, work best to brighten and lift the under-eye area and they tend to be lighter in texture, which makes them better suited to older skin. Not sure what shade to go for? Morris recommends selecting a concealer that is one shade lighter than your foundation. “This will lighten up the area you are trying to conceal and deflect the light away from wrinkles, sagging skin and dark circles,” she says. Always apply your concealer under your foundation and gently pat it on to skin with your ring finger until it’s blended, so it doesn’t just sit on the surface.

You liberally apply face powder
Applying too much face powder will only make fine lines more prominent. While it’s important to keep shine under control, you can do that with a light dusting of translucent powder rather than using heavy, mattifying powders. Pardo suggests doing the “powder rub down” to avoid overloading. “Simply sprinkle loose powder on to your hands and almost wash your face with it. Pat and press areas of the face that tend to have larger pores. Then take a large powder brush and brush off the excess,” she says. Morris also recommends trying a shade that’s a little lighter than you would expect to use, to avoid creating a line at your jaw. Try Blended Face Powder in Invisible Blend, $48, by Clinique, 1300 061 326, and Translucide Naturally Luminous Loose Powder, $29.95, by L’Oréal Paris, 1300 659 259.

You don’t use a luminiser
Yes, illuminating products should be used with caution once you’ve reached a certain age, as they can add too much shine and highlight those fine lines again. But, when used correctly, they instantly lift and brighten. A light dusting of a translucent illuminating powder like Météorites Illuminating Perfecting Pressed Powder, $115, by Guerlain, 02 9695 4800, when applied over the cheekbones, forehead, nose and chin, will “knock out any shine on the T-zone while adding instant radiance,” says make-up artist Elsa Morgan. Alternatively, an illuminating brush-on wand like Ideal Light Brush-On Illuminator, $48, by Estée Lauder, 1800 061 326, can be used to contour the face and attract light. Apply luminiser under your foundation.

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Is your make-up ageing you: beautiful skin habits

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madison July 2008

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